Best eating in the Heartland I

One of my toughest duties as the editor of Ad Astra is conducting local restaurant reviews. Over the past several weeks, I’ve visited several restaurants around central Kansas, sampling their entrees — and always dessert. The following reviews are the first five restaurants I visited. There’s very good eating in Small Town America – you just have to know where to look.

1. 56 Family Restaurant, Galva, KS

2. The Hub Brick Oven and Brewery, Moundridge, KS

3. theBarn, Burton, KS

4. Pjs Bar and Grill, Little River, KS

5. Bella Sol Bistro, Lindsborg, KS

1. 56 Family Restaurant, Galva, KS

I visited 56 Family Restaurant in Galva, Kansas, on a clear Friday evening. The restaurant is located about six miles east of McPherson on Highway 56, a two-lane blacktop highway. The interior is decorated with various street signs and was emptier than normal due to home high school football games in both McPherson and Galva that night. The menu offers classic American diner fare, with hearty dishes that are sure to satisfy but will also clog your arteries. To wit, I ordered the country fried steak with bacon-wrapped asparagus and mashed potatoes. My mom opted for the walleye, a bold choice in central Kansas where the nearest body of water is the Marion Reservoir. We later found out the fish was flown in frozen from Canada daily. Dad went with the ribeye. The country fried steak was excellent, and I sampled both the ribeye and the walleye, which were equally tasty. I discarded my normally utilitarian dining habits and ordered the Rocky Road pie with a brownie crust for dessert. It did not disappoint. Guests could either pay by cash at the table or by credit card at the register. Our total came to $73.18. 56 Family Restaurant is a throwback to 1950s Americana, in the best possible sense.

2. The Hub Brick Oven and Brewery, Moundridge, KS

We drove the 15 miles from McPherson to Moundridge as a storm rolled in across the plains. As we headed south on Old US 81, lightning flashed in the distance and the clouds grew darker. The Hub Brick Oven and Brewery feels distinctly out of place in Moundridge, a town with fewer than 2,000 residents. Moundridge is the epitome of a sleepy rural Kansas town, with towering grain elevators and rail tracks ready to transport the harvest away to bustling population centers. Yet, The Hub Brick Oven and Brewery stands out, resembling a restaurant you’d expect to find in a busy American metropolis. Inside, we encountered a bustling crowd, a long line, and a live singer playing a cover of Johnny Cash's "Folsom Prison Blues." You place your order at the counter, and once it's cooked, it’s called out over the PA system when it's ready for you to pick up and enjoy. The three of us ordered two brick oven-fired pizzas: one buffalo chicken and one veggie. For dessert, we enjoyed an excellent Reese's Pieces frosted cookie. They offer ice cream as well, but I was too full to indulge. For those interested, there's a bar with a wide selection of beers on tap. The interior of the restaurant is very modern, featuring flat-screen TVs, well-maintained bathrooms, and an overall contemporary vibe. While I was there, I often forgot I was in Moundridge, Kansas, and could have easily imagined myself in Austin, Nashville, or Boston. Our total came to $50.03, which included two pizzas, a cookie, and one beer. By the time we finished eating and left, the storm had passed. Outside, it was dark, much cooler, and the pavement was wet. The drive back to McPherson was peaceful, with fully satisfied stomachs.

3. theBarn, Burton, KS

thebarn, located about 25 miles south of McPherson on two-lane US 81, is a well-known, bustling spot. To avoid the crowds, we arrived early at 4:30 PM, during what could be described as "senior hour," with a notable number of canes and walkers—about 0.8 per person, by my estimate. The restaurant is housed in a large steel structure resembling a classic red barn, with minimal interior decor. A large feed tank separates the dining area from the taproom, and its cutout interior serves as the bar, adding to the rustic atmosphere. For appetizers, we had mushroom poppers, which were tasty but came with an interior that could only be described as molten lava hot. I ordered the Barn Burner Burger, which came with pepper jack cheese, spicy ketchup, bacon, and was served on a sourdough bun. My dad opted for a Reuben sandwich paired with a Space Camper IPA. As a dedicated restaurant reviewer, I always make sure to order dessert. I chose the peanut butter and fudge pie, while my dad had the blueberry crumble. Both were satisfying conclusions to the meal. The total for everything came to $55.

4. Pjs Bar and Grill, Little River, KS

We headed west on US-56, passing various petrochemical facilities along a well-maintained highway leading toward Great Bend. About 20 miles in, we came to the town of Little River on the right. Little River features a charming Main Street and a large grain silo. In the early-20th century, it served as a major grain export hub on the Santa Fe Railroad. PJ’s Bar and Grill is nestled in an unassuming storefront on Main Street. As we parked, we could hear the PA system for the Little River high school football game in the distance. Inside, the restaurant is wood-paneled, and Leonard Skynyrd is playing. You get a distinct vibe of blue-collar rock and roll. My dad ordered a Liberty Rose Ale from Three Rings Brewery, located in McPherson. The menu offers standard American grill fare, specializing in various cow and chicken derivatives. My mom, despite a lifetime of experience, ordered the fish, a questionable decision in central Kansas. My dad and I both opted for the much safer KC strip, cooked medium, which was the special of the night. As sides, I chose mashed potatoes and broccoli. The meal was preceded by an excellent iceberg lettuce salad. The dinner was delicious, and the steak was well seasoned. We decided to skip dessert since we were already full, and the total for the three of us came to $96. I will definitely be back.

5. Bella Sol Bistro, Lindsborg, KS

To get to Lindsborg from McPherson, you travel north for about 15 minutes on Old U.S. Highway 81, a two-lane road through increasingly rolling hills and tree-rimmed pastures. Lindsborg is a small, eclectic community, home to a private college, Bethany College, and a thriving local art scene. Our destination was Bella Sol Bistro, a restaurant on Main Street. Lindsborg is proud of its Swedish heritage, as evidenced by the wooden Dala horses lining Main Street and the numerous Swedish flags displayed throughout the town. Bella Sol Bistro is a cozy café offering a variety of foods, located on Lindsborg’s charming Main Street. It’s just across the street from the recently remodeled, cherry-red Lindsborg City Hall. The night was perfect - 80 degrees, clear, and a gentle breeze carried in the smell of burning fields - so we decided to enjoy our meal on the bistro's outdoor patio. Our young waitress mentioned she was on the bowling team at Kansas Wesleyan University in Salina. We started with a delicious flash fried Brussel sprout appetizer that everyone at the table enjoyed. This was followed by a fresh side salad and a monstrous double-patty Bella Bliss Burger, which was fantastic. Mom had the Pasta Pomodoro, and Dad enjoyed a flight of various local craft beers along with a slab of pork loin that was bigger than his head. They had dessert on the menu, but we decided to stop by Dairy Queen for Blizzards on our way back home instead. This was not a commentary on their desserts, which looked great, but rather just what was most convenient for us. After the meal, the restaurant's owner came over to our table for a chat and mentioned that they host live music periodically. The total for the meal was $83.56. I highly recommend Bella Sol Bistro and shall return.